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The map on the left shows Portsmouth Harbour around 1830 - the deep water channels are drawn in, but not definined by a change of colour, or texture.
Just to the right of Horsea Island (written as Horse I. here) is the foreshore shown in our moden photograph above and the word Subbington doesn't refer to the village near Gosport, but to Stubbington Farm, which spread from here down into North End and across towards Hilsea, where Green Farm was situated.
At low tide, a lot of the area that wasn't "deep channel" was actually exposed and it took an experienced navigator to prevent ships running aground. Even so, the deeper channels would soon prove to be not deep enough ... |
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The first steam dredgers were introduced in 1797, using Boulton and Watt engines and mostly employed to keep estuaries and smaller harbours clear of sediment. Bigger and more powerful dredgers would appear in due course, especially when the need for them became urgent.
The appearance of HMS Warrior in 1861 (launched the previous year) made every wooden hulled ship-of-the-line obsolete overnight and a new naval arms race began .
Unfortunately, however, iron hulled ships drew a deeper draught and needed deeper and wider channels in harbours everywhere; Portsmouth was no exception.
There had been a programme of dredging before this, although with the technology available before 1797 that must have been a soul-destroying job, but eventually dredgers began to evolve into the sort of vessel shown here, on the right, which employed what was known as a "bucket ladder" to bring up a continuous flow of mud and sand. |
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Dredging continued throughout the nineteenth century, into the twentieth and still goes on in the twenty first century - if the Royal Navy's two new aircraft carriers ever do get built, even the present day deep channels will need enlarging.
The map to the left was made around 1932 and we can see how the original deep channels were widened considerably. It's also clear that both Whale Island and Horsea Island were enlarged, using the dredged up mud.
The shoreline on the right, including Tipner, don't appear to have been extended, at least not laterally, but over a period of many years the level of this land was raised by several feet, to hold back tides and create, usable areas |
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These houses at the northern end of Gladys Avenue were built in 1897 and were a part of what was originally known as Gladys Terrace, one of many developments that sprung up along the road - and indeed, around the rest of the Stamshaw and North End area - between the late 1890s and the First World War.
Gladys Avenue itself was originally called Muddy Lane, just to emphasise exactly how bad conditions had been around the area previously, but was eventually renamed after the daughter of local businessman A W White - yes, the same A W White who built the furniture repository on the corner of Stubbington Avenue, at North End, where InterCash Bureau de Change Ltd has its administrative offices. |
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At the beginning of the twentieth century, an area of land adjacent to the foreshore was given over to the development of a park, for the use of local people - it was named in honour of Queen Alexandra and opened in 1907 and celebrated with a garden party given by Alderman Jenkins (no relation, as far as I know!).
The picture on the left was taken one hundred years after that and shows families strolling along the esplanade, which was built up to act as a sea wall. In sunny weather, it's a popular place for walking and it is also used by cyclists, runners and joggers, although it can be a bit breezy, especially during the colder winter months.
At one stage there was a miniature railway running from this spot, right |
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| the way along the side of the Esplanade to Fox's Forest and Hilsea Lido, but sadly we have been unable to trace any reliable records of it so far, despite first starting our initial search in 2007 and appealing through the pages of The Portsmouth Post for anyone who had any information about it, no matter how vague.
And yes, I do know that it existed - as a lad of about eleven, together with two friends, I found the remains of a small stretch of lines, just south of Fox's Forest, plus a small length of siding track, complete with buffers, although the timber structure of the latter was very badly rotted by then (1961). A couple of elderly neighbours at the time confirmed that they could remember the line, which was used for leisure purposes only.
On the right is one of several flights of concrete steps, which lead down to the foreshore itself, but which also provide access to the lower walkway, which serves to protect the main esplanade from erosion (although that is covered for a while during a lot of higher tides) and small dinghies can be brought alongside. |
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In my younger days, because of the diesel and oil soaked into the mud, the smell at low tide could be pretty overpowering, especially on a hot day and although great efforts have been made to clean up the aftermath of the former Pounds Scrapyard, there's still a whiff in the air!
Back in 2007, I wrote a commemorative piece for the centenary of Alexandra Park, which is on the now (almost) defunct Portsmouth Post website. I've now posted both sections of that feature in this site and you can read them by clicking on either the couple on the left, or the concrete steps above.
Since the date of that article, of course, the Mountbatten Centre has been refurbished and the new swimming pool added. Find out about all the facilities by clicking on the image on the right. |
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